Tour Guide @ Prague Urban Adventures. Sport enthusiast, animal lover and world traveller.
With its beautiful views of Prague and fabulous beer garden, the area of Letná is slowly making its way into the guidebooks. So, after you have checked off all the must-dos in the historical part of the city, spend your afternoon in Letná, soaking up the views with a beer. Trust us (and our local Prague tour guides), that’s just the beginning of what this up-and-coming neighbourhood has to offer.
Contrary to what most people think, Letná is not just the park overlooking the historical centre of Prague, but encompasses the entire hill above the Vltava river, stretching all the way to another park called Stromovka. In the past, this place was reserved for vineyards because of its great sunny location, and it wasn’t until the 19th century that it became a public park with a residential area. Today, Letná Hill is a part of Prague’s 7th district and is split between Holešovice and Bubeneč quarters. Here you won’t find a lot of tourists (except in the beer garden!), but that doesn’t mean there is nothing of interest.
How to get to Letná
The easiest and most straightforward way to Letná from the city centre is on foot. Starting from the Old Town square, take the most expensive street in the Czech Republic — Pařížská (Paris) Street — and continue across the Čechův bridge. From there, climb the stairs up the hill and you will end up in the middle of Letná Park.
Another alternative is to take a tram to Letenské náměstí (Letná Square). Number 12 will get you there from Malá Strana (Little Quarter), or take the numbers 8 and 26 tram from Náměstí republiky (Republic Square). All connections and timetables for public transport are available on this website.
Letná Park is the highlight of the whole area. It’s situated on the top of Letná Hill and has one of the most amazing views of Prague and beyond. There is a popular viewpoint where you can see many bridges across Vltava River including the most famous one, of course, the Charles Bridge.
In the middle of the park stands a huge Metronome. Its big red pendulum moves from side to side, standing on the spot where once stood the largest Stalin statue in the world. Nowadays, it has become a popular destination to watch the sunset, where you can grab a beer at Stalin bar (an open-air bar and a hipster paradise open from May-September, with chairs to relax) and observe skaters in the unofficial skate park behind. In summer there are lots of events in the park, including concerts, workshops, open-air theatre and cinema.
Besides skating, there are lots of other sporting activities you can do in Letná Park. For starters, there is a 1.5-mile loop around the park, great for running, cycling or even roller skating. You can also shoot some hoops, play tennis and ping pong, or join the football game (soccer). Other fun activities include Paintball and petánque (bocce ball).
If sport is not your thing, you can join the others at Letná Beer Garden, which is the biggest and one of the most popular ones in Prague. There is a blend of locals and visitors enjoying cold beer and conversation with a view under the trees.
Letná’s cultural scene
Despite being a relatively small area, Letná is home to three museums, a gallery, cinema and theatre. Every day there is something going on and sometimes it is hard to decide where to go, as there are so many interesting events.
National Technical Museum
One of the most popular museums in Prague, where you can find everything connected with technology in Czechoslovakia — from vehicles and aircraft to cameras and kitchen appliances. This year the National Technical Museum will feature a special exhibition called “Made in Czechoslovakia — The industry that ruled the world” in honour of the 100th anniversary of the foundation of Czechoslovakia. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 6pm. Kostelní 42, 170 78, Prague. Cost: 220 CZK.
National Museum of Agriculture
Tractor lover or not, the National Museum of Agriculture is certainly worth a visit. Very popular with visitors is the Gastronomy exhibition, where you can also join occasional cooking classes with chefs from the best restaurants in Prague. Another highlight is the herbal garden on the rooftop with a picnic area and one of the best views of the city. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 5pm. Kostelní 44, 170 00, Prague. Cost: 110 CZK.
The Coffee Museum has a nice little exhibition about the journey of the coffee bean from plantation to coffee cup. You can also look at some long-forgotten machines for preparing, grinding and roasting coffee. In case you get a craving for coffee, there is a café next door called Cukrárna Alchymista. Open Tuesday to Friday from 12pm to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 6pm. Jana Zajíce 7, Prague. Cost: 80 CZK.
Inside Veletržní palác (Trade Fair Palace) resides the modern and contemporary art collections of the National Gallery. Currently the museum has two permanent exhibitions: International art of the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries, and Czech art from Modernism to the present, where you can see paintings by Picasso, Renoir, van Gogh, Klimt and many others. A perfect place to be on a rainy day. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm. Staroměstské nám 12, 110 15 Prague. Cost: 250 CZK.
Very cosy and artsy movie theatre where you can bring in drinks and snacks from the bar next door, but the best thing about BIO OKO are the chairs. Besides regular cinema seats, there are plenty of bean bags and lounge chairs which you can move around to get the best viewing spot. At one point, BIO OKO even had a real car to sit in! Some of the programming worth checking out includes Blind Date (you won’t find out until the lights dim), Filmbrunch, which takes place on Sundays, Metropolitan Opera and Ballet in Cinema. Františka Křížka 15, Prague. Cost: Around 120 CZK, depending on the film.
Alfred ve dvoře Theatre
Also known as Alfred in the Courthouse, Alfred ve dvoře Theatre is another great place to visit if traditional theatre isn’t your thing. The venue shows progressive performances of independent artists who are breaking all the rules and finding their own style. The programme is usually available online. Františka Křížka 36, Prague. Cost: 200 CZK.
Here is something for the sports fans. The stadium is officially called Generali Arena, but locals still call it after the the home club, Sparta Praha. It is the most successful club in the country and watching Sparta Praha play with its biggest rival, Slavia Prague, is something you won’t soon forget. Occasionally the Czech national team also plays here. You can get tickets three hours before the match at the stadium box office, or buy them online here. M. Horákové 1066/98, 170 82, Prague.
Where to eat and drink in Letná
In Prague, like in any other city, food plays a big part in whether a district is popular or not. People need a place to socialise and one of the best ways to do it is over a cup of coffee or a meal in a cosy restaurant. Many new places have opened in Letná, from traditional to modern. Here are some of our favourite spots.
Lokál nad Stromovkou
Lokál nad Stromovkou is a traditional Czech restaurant that’s part of the famous Ambiente group (they also run places like Naše maso (Our Meat) and Eska — both very popular with locals and visitors). It is a great place with yummy local food like goulash and fried cheese, that never disappoints. They cooperate with the most famous brewery in the country, Pilsner Urquell, and keep their beer in huge tanks under the bar, so it’s always as fresh as possible. Nad Královskou oborou 232/31, 170 00, Prague.
One of the best places for brunch, The Farm‘s eggs benedict and mimosa drinks are to die for. Besides an all-day brunch, The Farm also has seasonal lunch offers and great cakes. Cool retro bikes hang on the wall, making the restaurant even more hip. Korunovacni 17, Prague.
It’s hard to imagine that only a couple years ago, there were almost no cafés in Letná. But things change fast, and today there is a large variety to choose from. Café Letka is surely worth checking out. Its chic interior and friendly staff, together with great coffee and homemade lemonade, create a relaxed ambiance. In the evening the café transforms into a bar offering local wine and beer. Letohradská 44, Prague.
This little piece of heaven is so well hidden, that only true locals know about it. Cukrárna Alchymista has a beautiful garden in the back and cosy old chairs that make you feel like you are at your grandma’s. Still it can get pretty busy, and not just because of their great ambiance and divine coffee, but also for their delicious prize-winning cheesecakes. They truly are doing something magical, just like real alchemists. Jana Zajíce 007, Prague.
Pho U Letné
Vietnamese people represent the third largest community in the country, so there’s no wonder Vietnamese cuisine is becoming more and more popular with locals. After the Velvet Revolution in 1989, many Vietnamese people decided to stay permanently. Pho U Letné, one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the city is located in Letná and their pho soup is a must. Nad štolou 1017/16, Prague.
The Elbow Room is a nice place to chill in the evening, while sipping one of their signature cocktails. The bar has an intimate and relaxing vibe with a Latino touch — just what a person needs after a long day. Veletržní 40, Prague.
Living in Prague or just visiting, Letná should definitely be on your radar. It has so much to offer for such a small area, that it can easily compete with any other Prague district — the amazing panoramic views are reason enough to visit. It’s a great place to see a different perspective of Prague.