Why locals line up for 4am pig blood soup at this Chiang Mai street stall

Why locals line up for 4am pig blood soup at this Chiang Mai street stall

At 4am, Nek opens the doors to his family-run breakfast shop, Joke Suan Dok Gate. By 6am, the place is packed with locals, who are all ordering up one of three dishes: joke (Thai-style congee), khao tom moo (rice and pork soup), or the most popular dish, tom luad moo,...

Read more
Bangkok’s best Muslim-Thai food is just steps away from Khao San Road

Bangkok’s best Muslim-Thai food is just steps away from Khao San Road

The matriarch and namesake of Aisyah Rod Dee passed away in late 2016, after running her Muslim-Thai restaurant on Thanon Tani in Bang Lamphu for more than 50 years. It was a sad loss for locals in Thailand, who have long loved the dishes she and her three generations of...

Read more
Where to find the best tom yum in Bangkok Phra Nakhon

Where to find the best tom yum in Bangkok Phra Nakhon

There are only four tables in Som Sri’s tom yum shop in front of Bangkok City Hall. That means if you come for lunch, either get here early or be prepared to wait. But the wait is worth it. That’s because the tom yum in Sor Naa Wang might just be...

Read more
This is the Chiang Mai stewed pork stall that Anthony Bourdain didn’t find

This is the Chiang Mai stewed pork stall that Anthony Bourdain didn’t find

The North Gate Cowgirl is easily the most famous vendor in Chiang Mai serving up khao kha moo (stewed pork leg). That’ll happen when none other than the patron saint of food-travel, Anthony Bourdain, takes his TV crew to your stall. But she’s not the only one in town cooking...

Read more
Wet and wild! A Songkran survival guide

Wet and wild! A Songkran survival guide

You’ve likely seen photos of it — even if you didn’t really know what it’s all about. The Songkran Water Festival is one of the most famous Thai celebrations and, at first glance, looks like nothing more than a wet and wild party. And yes, that’s kind of true, but...

Read more
The spiritual story of Thailand’s spirit houses

The spiritual story of Thailand’s spirit houses

There is something in the air in Thailand. There must be. I have lived on and off — mostly on — in this beautiful country for more than four years now. From the moment I first got off the plane in Chiang Mai, a town nestled in the mountains of...

Read more
A local’s guide to Loy Krathong and Yee-Peng in Chiang Mai

A local’s guide to Loy Krathong and Yee-Peng in Chiang Mai

Every year, on November’s full moon night, Thailand celebrates two festivities: Loy Krathong and Yee-Peng. Each serves its own purpose in honouring the past, the present and the future, with one taking to the water and the other looking up into the sky. In Chiang Mai, where Yee-Peng is so...

Read more
The best of Thailand’s secret street eats

The best of Thailand’s secret street eats

No disrespect to all those five-star restaurants out there, but we think the best food doesn’t have to be fine dining — sometimes the greatest meals of your life happen right out on the street, from a push-cart vendor with no name and no address. And when it comes to...

Read more
This woman serves the best spicy fruit salad (tum pollamai) in Bangkok

This woman serves the best spicy fruit salad (tum pollamai) in Bangkok

Nu, the owner of a small fruit stall down an alley off Samsen Road in the Thewet Market area, has a name that translates to “mouse” or “rat.” Not that she’s anything like a timid mouse — her Nu Tum Pollamai stall isn’t known for serving the cheapest tum pollamai (mixed...

Read more
Where to find Chiang Mai’s most mysterious khao man gai stall

Where to find Chiang Mai’s most mysterious khao man gai stall

Perhaps Sirichai Khao Man Gai’s biggest claim to fame is that no one knows its name. The shop specialising in khao man gai (Hainanese chicken rice) and khao soi (curried noodle soup) could have rocketed to tourism stardom a few years ago when a travel writer for Lonely Planet came...

Read more